Yes Charlie, The Waves Can Kill You.
today we hit up the beach again. nothing unusual, its become almost a daily tradition. except this time the tide was in, the waves were way bigger then ever before and the undertow of the current could work even chuck norris.
I was trying to get back to shore when a set of unreal huge waves pounded me constantly for about 5 minutes (to me it seemed like 5 hours). I had no time to breathe because the waves came so fast, just one after the other. they were so huge that they would break ontop of you and then drag, spin and flip you every possible direction. I couldnt tell up from down and I was moving at a really intense speed.
It was after this that I began to wonder if there was even any point in trying to resist the waves. to me it seemed like I was doomed to die in this ocean. the rest of the guys on the beach began to walk away, forgetting I was still in the water (except zach, thanks buddy). It was at this point where I would spend 30 to 60 seconds underwater and about 3 or 4 above, that I felt death near to me. never in my entire life have I been so close to death, and known it.
I was seconds away from embracing my fate that this was my tomb. all I had to do was inhale and my lungs would fill up with water and I wouldnt have to fight against the waves. only moments away from doing so, I felt the sand by my feet and in a split second, I jumped out of the water to grab a quick breath just as a huge wave hit me from behind and carried my body to shore. at this point I used everything I had to drag my body the rest of the way to shore. once there, I sat as far away from the water as I could and reviewed what had just happened.
I felt like I had just run a marathon because I was breathing so heavly. my head was dizzy and thick and my eyes were burning from a mixture of sand and salt water being pumped into them. I felt like I was going to be sick from the salt water intake in my body. It was an experience I will never forget and I dont expect to be heading out into the waves for the rest of this trip.